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Clover

Every speaking event I have ever done, one question that is asked all the time "How do we get rid of weeds like clover ??"
My late partner from Iowa, on his first trip north asked to see a clover lawn. He had heard so much about the clover lawns in Ontario, he just had to see one. As I told him that was before the chemical use on lawns. Clover is NOT A WEED. It was easier for the companies to teach you that clover is a weed, than to come up with a formula that would not affect clover. Clover brings nutrients and moisture from down deep (up to 35 feet in many cases) hence your lawn is healthy brix/sugar levels are high. Since the brix is so high, the chance of having an insect problem especially grubs are little to nil.
Because of the deep root of clover, moisture and nutrients are brought up by the plant and actually help the grasses and plants around each plant. Your lawn should stay green all year, even with drought conditions. (in Canada and many parts of the USA) a nice green cover about 3 - 4 inches in height - mowing becomes optional. Oh yes those little white flowers all over your lawn - believe me they don't bite -- Bees love them. If your concern is a green, healthy lawn then you want a clover lawn. In many cases, I hear the "neighbor doesn't like it" Now let me ask did you buy your property to satisfy your needs or those of someone else.
The companies say they have a weed killer to look after clover. A product that travels up to 35 feet down the root …. Maybe. Let me ask this, if there was a weed killer after 5 years taking into consideration reseeding, germination, buried seed etc., that weed killer would no longer be needed. Or as Ken said, "if someone shoots you and kills you - you are dead. You don't come back next year" why then do weeds come back next year and next year etc. but, we believe what they tell us and keep buying more (at least we used to) Maybe they just have a weed deterrent (a wounding - so to speak) now they can sell you more every year. Of course if they knew this they would tell you …. Wouldn't they. After all they have your best interest at heart. …. Just ask them.

For what it's worth ------ that's my opinion
Harold

Spring 2011

Because of the kind of year we just had, brace yourself for the coming year.
This year most of the perennial plants, (in this group I include) lawns, pastures, trees, including fruit trees are going to try to recover from stress. Yes I said stress. The weather last year with all of its ups and downs, excess heat followed by cold conditions, drought followed by heavy rain etc. Many times the above conditions are great, just what you want. Last year, most of these conditions were fast off and on. The plant had not enough time to adjust … this causes stress. The last thing we want the plant to carry over is stress.
One of the early signs you will notice as soon as the snow goes is snow mold. This is an early sign. As the year goes on, grubs, plant disease, weak plants, insect infestations are all possibilities. The conditions are prime. I may be wrong, I have never claimed otherwise. Professional lawn care companies and others that work with nature, have already ordered a special formulation to assist with the oncoming stress. Many have already applied the product.
Those above-mentioned companies have been working with nature for many years. The health of the plant is primary with them. Unlike many others, never tell you about the health of the plant, but can tell you to the penny what your cost will be. Results … maybe. Of course they care about..
For those if you that saw the stress in you tomatoes, cucumbers etc. all that drying out may I suggest using a mixture of ground horseradish and water (allow this to sit for 2 days) mix this with water 60/40 and spray the area this may help get rid of the carryover.

For what it's worth ------ that's my opinion
Harold

 

A plant only needs fertilizer and water?

That statement is so far out in left field. I would be going to a different retailer if this is their opinion. You and I (our bodies) need a little more than just bread and water.
Just as plant nutrition or health depends on several factors, [depending on who you speak with;] there are many different opinions
We believe; For example; Macronutrients, Micronutrients, Trace elements, Water, Light, Temperature, soil or growing medium, all play a part in plant health. Let me first explain our belief
On the Macro side are things ie: nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur.
On the Micro side things like iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine.
As for the Trace elements, hundreds known and described. (Kelp is loaded)
Water - as with the human body a major part is water. Water and relative humidity are the most essential factors required in growth of plants. Water plays a crucial role for photosynthesis, (Plants convert carbon dioxide and water to create essential sugars through the process of photosynthesis) respiration, transpiration and transportation of minerals and other nutrients through the plant. It is taken up through the leaves as well as the root system. Plays a major part in the placement of the root system.
Light factors influence plant growth and quality
Temperature a major element that influences the growth of plants. Temperature of the surrounding atmosphere as well as the temperature of the soil matters for the plant growth.
Soil - with a combination of all of the above, along with a biologically active or an alive soil, in somewhat of a balance is a healthy home for plants
Each is needed in this balance. Some maybe at 3 to 1 others at 1000 or 10000 to 1 etc. All are needed no matter how small, to make the other be more efficient and effective. Relate this to a car - every element is needed to make it move smoothly - but - 1 flat tire or malfunction does make a difference. Other people or companies tell you about these - others prefer you don't know [they have their reasons all have to do with $$$] Some would say; - major nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - or N-P-K);
- minor nutrients (calcium, iron, sulphur)
- trace elements (boron, copper, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, sodium, zinc)
And still others make the above statement "A plant only needs fertilizer and water??." If you want a healthy plant in healthy soil you need the combination.

For what it's worth ------ that's my opinion
Harold

 

What About Feeding Your Trees?

Take a lesson from the plant. The onset of winter or the coming of spring the tree prepares for what is coming. To ready itself for winter, the tree stores its sugars (food supply) in the roots. This is Natures way of protecting the plant against damage caused by wind etc. In the spring, and the Maple is the best example of this, the tree sends those sugars into the body parts of the tree to give a boost and start growth again.
So, would it not be better to assist the tree, with a feeding of the feeder roots (found around the drip line of the tree - the outside edge of the foliage) or as I was told many years ago, "for every inch in diameter - go 1 foot in each direction" in other words, if the trunk -(about 2 ft. above the ground)- is 5 inches in diameter, the drip line should be about 5 feet in each direction of the trunk. This would give you a ring around the tree of 10 - 11 feet. [1 inch = approx. 2.5 cm. 1 foot = approx. 30 cm.]
Put a hole about the size of your little or middle finger, about 18 to 24 inches apart around the drip line. Mix a medium solution of a natural fertilizer or plant food and pour around the drip line filling the holes. A second application should be applied about 14 days later. Do this spring and fall. This will assist the tree in getting ready for winter by storing extra nutrition in the roots. This will also assist the tree with nutrients for the upcoming season. Just like you and I, a little snack in between isn't wasted. So a couple of light feedings throughout the season would not be wasted.
On a different note… I agree with those that say trees in the forest "do not get extra feedings, and seem to do very well." Let's look at the differences. A tree in the forest has been looked after by nature. Always attempting to balance the soil. Soil with high humus levels and good tilith. A tree in your yard is in foreign territory. In many cases these trees are started in a container with a special nutrient mix, moisture and in some cases temperature control.
They are then set into a location that may or may not have sufficient nutrients etc. and in some cases placed in soil that in many cases is nothing more than waste fill. It is then feed and watered for the first few weeks and then expected to do well on its own. The tree is then stressed from the time it is planted, and is expected to do well.
We have a tendency to take care of our lawns, flowers and gardens and not bother with trees.
To answer the question "What About Feeding Your Tree's ?"

For what it's worth ------ that's my opinion
Harold

 

Plant Stress

On several accessions I have been asked,
"what causes plant stress?"
"The same things that cause you stress".
Plant stress much like your stress comes in varying degrees. Small things can create major stress, this can affect the plants ability to utilize nutrients, moisture, fight insects and disease thus growth and reproduction. Each of these work in combination, just as with you ie: heat this makes you think (unconsciously) about work, food, dress etc. each is interrelated.
Temperature change
Environmental change
Heat - not enough or too much
Cold
Humidity - not enough or too much
Water - not enough or too much
Insects and Disease
Light - not enough or too much,
pH
Nutrition - not enough or too much imbalance
Cutting or trimming
Wind and Rain
Transplanting or thinning
Chemical - fertility, herbicide or pesticide
Each of these has many combinations of things that add to stress. This question is not easily answered. The more natural the stress aid - the less additional stress on the plant, the easier the stress is relieved. My answer is based on experience not science. But,

For what it's worth ------ that's my opinion
Harold

 

Deep Root Feeding

I have been asked my opinion many times on deep root feeding and of course being naturally opinionated I give it. First of all, I would ask you to take a moment to think about how nature works. I was taught there are two types of bacteria - aerobic - need oxygen and anaerobic cannot take oxygen (it kills them) Deep root feeding originates from something above ground - containing oxygen. This feeding kills the aerobic bacteria (the feed) and because they are forcing oxygen into a area that can't stand oxygen they kill it too. Not to say that this will go to waste, it won't. but will do no good until it becomes food for anaerobic bacteria. This takes time.
If you ask a lawn-care, landscaper or even the person doing the deep root feeding about the parts of a tree, they would likely include the anchor (the trees deep roots) and the feeder roots (found around the drip line of the tree - the outside edge of the foliage) If this is the feeder roots, why then are we trying to do a deep root feeding on an anchor root?
Would we not be better to make about an 18 to 24 inch (50-60 cm) hole about the size and depth of your little finger, all around the drip line. Because this is a drip line the feeder roots are near the surface so when the water drips it doesn't have to penetrate deeply. (nature is not just a word as some would think or have you assume) Fill this hole with a natural plant food solution from The Natural Way Plant Products Ltd. or the product of your choice. It is easy to apply too much chemical fertilizer and burn or harm your plants. Use natural product - less product - more ofter - better results. Then water well.

For what it's worth ------ that's my opinion
Harold

 

Fish Hydrolysate

Since biblical times and likely before (someone taught them) the benefits of fish has been known. The raw fish and fish waste has been used as fertilizer. Fish has been laid in the row and used (chopped or ground) to make a nutrient tea. The raw fish was used because it retains all of the natural nutrients.
The hydrolysate process retains the natural nutrients and does not have the strong smell. Unlike the emulsions that are boiled or cooked. This changes the molecular structure, and like anything cooked or boiled many of the natural nutrients are lost or altered. Cooking seems to bring out the strong fish smell, mainly from the oils. Many chemical fertilizers are salt based and tend to gas/leach from the soil, contaminating ground and surface waters.
With continued use, you should notice intense green-up in foliage and significant root development. As with most of our products enhanced with kelp, you should find enhanced microbial activity, leading to deeper root systems thus leading to better aeration, more drought resistance, better overall plant health. Less disease and insect infestations are additional side benefits.

For what it's worth …. That's my opinion.
Harold

 

Ground feeding or Foliar feeding

.When it comes to fertilizing plants there are those that think there is only one way ...
* broadcast dry or pour liquid on the ground, or;
* foliar feed (spray the leaves)
Both views are convinced, their view is the most efficient and effective method at delivering nutrients to a plant. When you combine the two, are much greater. Some studies show as much as 7 times the benefit to the plant, because the plant has more available to work with..
Nature utilizes both. When it rains the plant takes the nutrients in through the leaves as well as taking in moisture and nutrients through the roots. The plant always looks much better after a rain. Maybe it is the combination of both the plant likes. Maybe both are essential to good, healthy growth. If the plant shows this kind of result, why not use the combination more often.
I was taught that the plant is a perfect power manufacturing plant. It has the ability to manufacture the elements needed, by utilizing the elements available to sustain growth and health. Although growth in many situations outdoes health. The elements from foliar combine with the elements from the roots with the net result more manufacturing. More manufacturing means better health and growth. The difference is now there is healthier growth. A healthier growth means less disease and insect problems.
In a regular manufacturing plant the output is determined by the size, labor force ability to formulate the known ingredients, and end up with finished product. Every change in input changes the formulation. No matter if it be size, labor force, input or finished product. Each single unit strengthens the combination of the other.
Think of it. This manufacturing plant has increased production, using more elements (ingredients) using A with B a little of C etc. without added outside input. The production is increased without calling in extra workers. the increase of extra nutrients is not wasted because of exrta workers, It is all done naturally for the betterment of the manufacturing plant. It has the ability to take what it is given and make the best of it. ….. I think I have heard that before.

For what it's worth …. That's my opinion.
Harold

 
   
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